Noroeste argentino
7–11 January 2025 in the Argentine northwest, in a rented Corolla Cross from Salta. We drove south to Cafayate on the scenic Ruta 68 — stops in the Quebrada de las Conchas, including Garganta del Diablo. In Cafayate we visited Patios de Cafayate and had dinner at Piattelli, both incredibly beautiful, and slept at an Airbnb in town. We had meant to take Ruta 40 north from Cafayate but the road was in poor shape, so we went back up the 68, turned at El Carril for Cachi, and I did not like Cachi; the climb was stressful to drive, the surface not good. From there we immediately went back through Salta to San Antonio de los Cobres — a complete waste of time and an entire day of travel. We slept (and ate; the food was decent) at Hotel de las Nubes, the only possible place: very cold, the road in scenic and desolate. We didn't make it to the Viaducto de La Polvorilla. Then Ruta 40 to Salinas Grandes, a dangerous traverse in an unprepared Corolla Cross after rain two nights before — shallow rivers, mud where trucks were stuck, and at one point we had to shovel sand over the road to get through. Adrenaline: in a place that empty, an accident would have left us with nothing to do. After the salt we took the beautiful Cuesta del Lipán down to Purmamarca, a stunning little village, then Ruta 9 to Tilcara: Tulmas hotel (very decent) and dinner at La Peña de Rolito, an amazing night. Next day the Serranías del Hornocal — extraordinary views, though I was short of breath at that altitude — then south to San Salvador de Jujuy for Patagonia on the central square, and on to Salta by Plaza 9 de Julio. At night the peñas, including El Molino and La Estación.
- Attrazione
Salta
Visitato: 7 gen 2025
Note di arrivo: Rented the car here and drove south
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
Start of the loop. We picked up the Corolla Cross and headed for Cafayate.
- Attrazione
Garganta del Diablo
Visitato: 7 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — Ruta 68, Quebrada de las Conchas
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
One of several stops on the scenic drive south. Not the Iguazú one — the red-rock gorge on the way to Cafayate.
- Attrazione
Anfiteatro
Visitato: 7 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — Another pull-off on Ruta 68
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
More of the Quebrada de las Conchas. The whole road south is the point.
- Alloggio
Cafayate
Visitato: 7 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — Into town at the end of the 68
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
An Airbnb in town.
- Attrazione
Patios de Cafayate
Visitato: 8 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — The wine hotel on the edge of town
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
Incredibly beautiful. A visit, not a stay.
- Ristorante
Piattelli
Visitato: 8 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — The vineyards above town
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
Dinner. Incredibly beautiful.
- Attrazione
El Carril
Visitato: 9 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — Back north on Ruta 68, then the turn for Cachi
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
Where we left the 68. We had decided against Ruta 40 from Cafayate because of the state of the road.
- Attrazione
Cachi
Visitato: 9 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — The climb from El Carril
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
I did not like Cachi. The road up was stressful to drive — not in good condition.
- Attrazione
San Antonio de los Cobres
Visitato: 9 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — Immediately back through Salta, then west — an entire day
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
A complete waste of time. We didn't make it to the Viaducto de La Polvorilla.
- Alloggio
Hotel de las Nubes
Visitato: 9 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — The only possible place in town
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
One night. We ate here too; the food was decent. Very cold. The road in was scenic, even if desolate.
- Attrazione
Salinas Grandes
Visitato: 10 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — Ruta 40 from San Antonio, in the Corolla Cross
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
A dangerous traverse. The car was unprepared; it had rained the two nights before. Shallow rivers, mud where trucks were stuck, and at one point we had to shovel sand over the road to get through. In a place that empty, an accident would have left us with nothing to do.
- Attrazione
Cuesta del Lipán
Visitato: 10 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — The mountain road down toward Purmamarca
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
Beautiful after the salt — switchbacks off the puna.
- Attrazione
Purmamarca
Visitato: 10 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — Down the cuesta
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
A stunning little village.
- Alloggio
Tulmas
Visitato: 10 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — Ruta 9 from Purmamarca to Tilcara
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
The hotel in Tilcara. Very, very decent.
- Ristorante
La Peña de Rolito
Visitato: 10 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: A piedi — In Tilcara
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
Dinner. An amazing experience.
- Attrazione
Serranías del Hornocal
Visitato: 11 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — From Tilcara, up to the viewpoint
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
Amazing views. I was short of breath because of the altitude.
- Ristorante
Patagonia
Visitato: 11 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — South to San Salvador de Jujuy, the central square
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
The brewery on Plaza Belgrano. Nice.
- Alloggio
Plaza 9 de Julio
Visitato: 11 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: Auto — On south to Salta, close to the plaza
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
We were staying near the square, which I found nice.
- Attrazione
El Molino
Visitato: 11 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: A piedi — The peñas at night
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
Lively. La Casona del Molino.
- Attrazione
La Estación
Visitato: 11 gen 2025
Come ci sono arrivato: A piedi — Balcarce, the peña street
· Apri in Google Maps (si apre in una nuova scheda)
Another peña — the lively end of the trip.
Riepilogo del percorso: Salta → Garganta del Diablo → Anfiteatro → Cafayate → Patios de Cafayate → Piattelli → El Carril → Cachi → San Antonio de los Cobres → Hotel de las Nubes → Salinas Grandes → Cuesta del Lipán → Purmamarca → Tulmas → La Peña de Rolito → Serranías del Hornocal → Patagonia → Plaza 9 de Julio → El Molino → La Estación