Sicily
A round trip by rental car in April 2024 (9–12), starting and ending in Catania — southeast baroque towns, Agrigento, Erice, Palermo, Cefalù, and Taormina. Standout meal: Cu Mangia Fa Muddrichi near Agrigento.
- Attraction
Catania
Visited: Apr 9, 2024
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Start (and later end) of the loop. We hung out at Via degli Ombrellini — very lively nightlife — and ate at Trattoria da Mario on Via Crociferi. Worth doing: fish market (La Pescheria), Piazza del Duomo and the elephant fountain, a walk up Via Etnea, and a look toward Etna if the sky is clear.
- Historic marker
Syracuse
Visited: Apr 9, 2024
How I got there: Car
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Worth doing: wander Ortigia's lanes to the Duomo, Fonte Aretusa, the Greek Theatre and archaeological park, and the Castello Maniace at the tip of the island.
- Historic marker
Noto
Visited: Apr 10, 2024
How I got there: Car
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Worth doing: Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the golden baroque facades, the Cathedral, climb to the rooftop of Palazzo Ducezio or a belvedere, and gelato on a hot afternoon.
- Historic marker
Ragusa
Visited: Apr 10, 2024
How I got there: Car
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Worth doing: Ragusa Ibla's maze of lanes, the view from the Giardino Ibleo, the Duomo di San Giorgio, and the staircase views linking Ibla and the upper town.
- Historic marker
Modica
Visited: Apr 10, 2024
How I got there: Car
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Worth doing: the Duomo di San Giorgio above the town, chocolate tasting (cioccolato di Modica), the steep lanes between Modica Alta and Bassa, and a belvedere over the valley.
- Historic marker
Agrigento
Visited: Apr 11, 2024
How I got there: Car
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Worth doing: Valley of the Temples (Concordia at golden hour), the Kolymbethra Garden, the archaeological museum, and a slow walk along the Via Sacra.
- Restaurant
Cu Mangia Fa Muddrichi
Visited: Apr 11, 2024
How I got there: Car
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In Porto Empedocle, near Agrigento — spectacular. The meal I still remember from this trip.
- Attraction
Erice
Visited: Apr 11, 2024
How I got there: Car
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Worth doing: the misty hilltop lanes, Castello di Venere views, the Matrice and stone streets, and a pastry stop (genovesi) before winding back down toward the coast.
- Attraction
Palermo
Visited: Apr 12, 2024
How I got there: Car
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Via Maqueda was very lively. Worth doing: Quattro Canti and the Cathedral, the Ballarò or Capo market, the Palatine Chapel / Norman Palace if open, and an evening stroll along Via Maqueda.
- Attraction
Cefalù
Visited: Apr 12, 2024
How I got there: Car
· Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)
Worth doing: the Norman cathedral, the old town lanes down to the beach, a climb toward La Rocca for the view, and a swim if the weather plays along.
- Attraction
Taormina
Visited: Apr 12, 2024
How I got there: Car
· Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)
Worth doing: the Greek Theatre with Etna in the backdrop, Corso Umberto, a belvedere over the bay, and the cable car or stairs down toward Mazzarò / Isola Bella. Then back to Catania to close the loop.
Route summary: Catania → Syracuse → Noto → Ragusa → Modica → Agrigento → Cu Mangia Fa Muddrichi → Erice → Palermo → Cefalù → Taormina