Cruce de los Andes
Horseback Andes crossing, 16–20 January 2025, immediately after Mendoza — with my sister and best friends. This is one of the paths used by the Ejército Libertador de los Andes; San Martín himself crossed it on his final return to Buenos Aires. A van from near Tupungato, driven by the guides, took us to the gendarmerie frontier post; there we mounted and rode to Refugio Scaravelli and camped. Next day toward Portillo Argentino: past the abandoned-bus bifurcation and Real de la Mula Muerta, over the pass at 4,400 m, then an exhausting downhill to Refugio Real de la Cruz. We slept in the refuge gym — barbecue, stories, a nice night. The next morning I was too sick to continue. The others went on to Portillo Chileno, very cold, and slept outside anyway, under the stars. They circled back, picked me up at Real de la Cruz, and we all recrossed the Portillo to Scaravelli. After a night there we rode back to the same gendarmerie post and vaned into Mendoza. A shower at a friend's, then the plane to Miami.
- Attraction
Tupungato
Visited: Jan 16, 2025
Arrival notes: Van with the guides, from close to town
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Where the crossing started — my sister and best friends, and the guides driving.
- Attraction
Gendarmería, Manzano Histórico
Visited: Jan 16, 2025
How I got there: Car — The van to the frontier post
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The border crossing where we left the van and mounted the horses.
- Lodging
Refugio Scaravelli
Visited: Jan 16, 2025
How I got there: Other — On horseback from the gendarmerie post
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First night. We slept in camps.
- Attraction
Portillo Argentino
Visited: Jan 17, 2025
How I got there: Other — On horseback — past the abandoned-bus fork and Real de la Mula Muerta
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4,400 m. The high point of the traverse. One of the passes used by the Ejército Libertador de los Andes.
- Lodging
Refugio Real de la Cruz
Visited: Jan 17, 2025
How I got there: Other — A long, exhausting downhill on horseback
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We slept in the refuge gym. Barbecue and stories — a nice night.
- Lodging
Real de la Cruz — sick day
Visited: Jan 18, 2025
How I got there: Other — I stayed. I could not continue.
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Very sick. The rest of the expedition — my sister and friends — went on without me.
- Attraction
Portillo Chileno
Visited: Jan 18, 2025
How I got there: Other — The others, on horseback. I was still at Real de la Cruz.
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They said it was very cold. They slept outside anyway, under the stars.
- Attraction
Portillo Argentino
Visited: Jan 19, 2025
How I got there: Other — They picked me up at Real de la Cruz. We recrossed together.
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Back over the pass, the other way — the direction San Martín took on his final return to Buenos Aires.
- Lodging
Refugio Scaravelli
Visited: Jan 19, 2025
How I got there: Other — On horseback from the Portillo
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One more night at the refuge.
- Attraction
Gendarmería, Manzano Histórico
Visited: Jan 20, 2025
How I got there: Other — On horseback, back to the original post
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Where we had mounted. The van was waiting.
- Lodging
A friend's place, Mendoza
Visited: Jan 20, 2025
How I got there: Car — Van back to the city
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A shower. Then the airport.
- Other
Aeropuerto Mendoza
Visited: Jan 20, 2025
How I got there: Flight — The plane back to Miami
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End of the crossing.
Route summary: Tupungato → Gendarmería, Manzano Histórico → Refugio Scaravelli → Portillo Argentino → Refugio Real de la Cruz → Real de la Cruz — sick day → Portillo Chileno → Portillo Argentino → Refugio Scaravelli → Gendarmería, Manzano Histórico → A friend's place, Mendoza → Aeropuerto Mendoza