El Calafate and El Chaltén
If you have time to go south, this region is absolutely spectacular — one of the most beautiful areas in Argentina. El Calafate is the base for Perito Moreno Glacier; El Chaltén, three hours north, is the trekking capital. We drove everything over four days at the end of 2019: the glacier boardwalks, a walk on the ice from Puerto Bajo las Sombras, the Ríos de Hielo boat to Upsala and Spegazzini, and a 4am day trip to Chaltén that we would not repeat. Stay at least three or four days — two in Calafate, two in Chaltén — and bring layers and proper hiking shoes. The wind and the weather change fast.
- Lodging
Hosteria Los Canelos
Visited: Dec 26, 2019
Arrival notes: Rented a car at the airport
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We rented a car at the airport and drove the whole trip — that is how this region works. Los Canelos was a beautiful, restful base; the receptionist was very helpful, and a proper bed mattered after days that were extremely tiring.
- Recreational
El Calafate and Lago Argentino
How I got there: Car — The town is the hub. We had a rental car from the airport and used it for everything.
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Give the town and the lake a day of their own, not only the glacier. El Calafate sits on Lago Argentino: wind, light, and a walkable centre. This is the half of the stay that is not an excursion — eat, recover, look at the water.
- Attraction
Glaciarium
How I got there: Car — A short drive west of town on RP11.
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A glacier museum just outside town — ice, climate, and the Southern Patagonian Ice Field explained well. Worth it if you have an extra half day, especially if the weather has shut down a hike.
- Attraction
Pasarelas del Perito Moreno
How I got there: Car — Drive into Los Glaciares National Park to the glacier walkways. Park ticket required.
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The boardwalks face the glacier wall directly. You hear thunder when chunks of ice calve into the lake — glimpses and sound, over and over. Breathtaking. Perito Moreno is one of the few glaciers in the world that is still advancing. Give it hours, not a photo stop.
- Recreational
Walk on Perito Moreno — Puerto Bajo las Sombras
How I got there: Boat — Drive to Puerto Bajo las Sombras, then the short crossing to the ice. Book the minitrekking well in advance.
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We walked on top of the glacier departing from Puerto Bajo las Sombras — crampons, ice, and the surface from the middle instead of from the railings. Book well in advance; Hielo y Aventura runs the classic walk. A different glacier from the one you watch from the pasarelas.
- Recreational
Ríos de Hielo — Puerto Bandera
How I got there: Boat — We drove to Puerto Bandera on Lago Argentino and boarded there.
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The Ríos de Hielo excursion takes you up Lago Argentino to Upsala, Spegazzini, and the other walls you cannot reach from the Perito Moreno walkways. A full day on the water among bergs — the scale of the ice field finally makes sense.
- Restaurant
La Tablita
How I got there: Walk — In town, on Coronel Rosales. We walked from the hotel.
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The place for cordero — Patagonian mutton, grilled the old way. A Calafate classic. Go hungry.
- Restaurant
Pantagonia
How I got there: Walk — On Avenida del Libertador in the centre.
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A bakery on Libertador run by its German-descended owners. I was with German friends and they felt closer to home. Coffee, cakes, and a pause from the wind.
- Attraction
El Chaltén
How I got there: Car — About three hours by car from El Calafate; buses also leave daily. We drove, departing at 4am and coming back in the afternoon.
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The trekking capital of Argentina: turquoise lakes, granite spires, and trails in every direction. We went for the day — 4am out of Calafate, back in the afternoon, all by car. If you can, do not do this. Stay at least one night. Two hiking days is the right amount.
- Recreational
Laguna de los Tres
How I got there: Walk — The classic full-day hike from El Chaltén to the face of Mount Fitz Roy.
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The hike to see Fitz Roy face-on. A full day from El Chaltén — steep at the end, worth every switchback. You cannot honestly do this as a day trip from Calafate. Stay in Chaltén and start early.
- Recreational
Laguna Capri
How I got there: Walk — Shorter trail from El Chaltén, on the way toward Fitz Roy.
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Shorter than Los Tres and still a must: a turquoise lake with Fitz Roy in the frame. A good first hike, or the one that fits if you only have a short day in town.
Route summary: Hosteria Los Canelos → El Calafate and Lago Argentino → Glaciarium → Pasarelas del Perito Moreno → Walk on Perito Moreno — Puerto Bajo las Sombras → Ríos de Hielo — Puerto Bandera → La Tablita → Pantagonia → El Chaltén → Laguna de los Tres → Laguna Capri