Noroeste argentino
7–11 January 2025 in the Argentine northwest, in a rented Corolla Cross from Salta. We drove south to Cafayate on the scenic Ruta 68 — stops in the Quebrada de las Conchas, including Garganta del Diablo. In Cafayate we visited Patios de Cafayate and had dinner at Piattelli, both incredibly beautiful, and slept at an Airbnb in town. We had meant to take Ruta 40 north from Cafayate but the road was in poor shape, so we went back up the 68, turned at El Carril for Cachi, and I did not like Cachi; the climb was stressful to drive, the surface not good. From there we immediately went back through Salta to San Antonio de los Cobres — a complete waste of time and an entire day of travel. We slept (and ate; the food was decent) at Hotel de las Nubes, the only possible place: very cold, the road in scenic and desolate. We didn't make it to the Viaducto de La Polvorilla. Then Ruta 40 to Salinas Grandes, a dangerous traverse in an unprepared Corolla Cross after rain two nights before — shallow rivers, mud where trucks were stuck, and at one point we had to shovel sand over the road to get through. Adrenaline: in a place that empty, an accident would have left us with nothing to do. After the salt we took the beautiful Cuesta del Lipán down to Purmamarca, a stunning little village, then Ruta 9 to Tilcara: Tulmas hotel (very decent) and dinner at La Peña de Rolito, an amazing night. Next day the Serranías del Hornocal — extraordinary views, though I was short of breath at that altitude — then south to San Salvador de Jujuy for Patagonia on the central square, and on to Salta by Plaza 9 de Julio. At night the peñas, including El Molino and La Estación.
- Attraction
Salta
Visited: Jan 7, 2025
Arrival notes: Rented the car here and drove south
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Start of the loop. We picked up the Corolla Cross and headed for Cafayate.
- Attraction
Garganta del Diablo
Visited: Jan 7, 2025
How I got there: Car — Ruta 68, Quebrada de las Conchas
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One of several stops on the scenic drive south. Not the Iguazú one — the red-rock gorge on the way to Cafayate.
- Attraction
Anfiteatro
Visited: Jan 7, 2025
How I got there: Car — Another pull-off on Ruta 68
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More of the Quebrada de las Conchas. The whole road south is the point.
- Lodging
Cafayate
Visited: Jan 7, 2025
How I got there: Car — Into town at the end of the 68
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An Airbnb in town.
- Attraction
Patios de Cafayate
Visited: Jan 8, 2025
How I got there: Car — The wine hotel on the edge of town
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Incredibly beautiful. A visit, not a stay.
- Restaurant
Piattelli
Visited: Jan 8, 2025
How I got there: Car — The vineyards above town
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Dinner. Incredibly beautiful.
- Attraction
El Carril
Visited: Jan 9, 2025
How I got there: Car — Back north on Ruta 68, then the turn for Cachi
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Where we left the 68. We had decided against Ruta 40 from Cafayate because of the state of the road.
- Attraction
Cachi
Visited: Jan 9, 2025
How I got there: Car — The climb from El Carril
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I did not like Cachi. The road up was stressful to drive — not in good condition.
- Attraction
San Antonio de los Cobres
Visited: Jan 9, 2025
How I got there: Car — Immediately back through Salta, then west — an entire day
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A complete waste of time. We didn't make it to the Viaducto de La Polvorilla.
- Lodging
Hotel de las Nubes
Visited: Jan 9, 2025
How I got there: Car — The only possible place in town
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One night. We ate here too; the food was decent. Very cold. The road in was scenic, even if desolate.
- Attraction
Salinas Grandes
Visited: Jan 10, 2025
How I got there: Car — Ruta 40 from San Antonio, in the Corolla Cross
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A dangerous traverse. The car was unprepared; it had rained the two nights before. Shallow rivers, mud where trucks were stuck, and at one point we had to shovel sand over the road to get through. In a place that empty, an accident would have left us with nothing to do.
- Attraction
Cuesta del Lipán
Visited: Jan 10, 2025
How I got there: Car — The mountain road down toward Purmamarca
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Beautiful after the salt — switchbacks off the puna.
- Attraction
Purmamarca
Visited: Jan 10, 2025
How I got there: Car — Down the cuesta
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A stunning little village.
- Lodging
Tulmas
Visited: Jan 10, 2025
How I got there: Car — Ruta 9 from Purmamarca to Tilcara
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The hotel in Tilcara. Very, very decent.
- Restaurant
La Peña de Rolito
Visited: Jan 10, 2025
How I got there: Walk — In Tilcara
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Dinner. An amazing experience.
- Attraction
Serranías del Hornocal
Visited: Jan 11, 2025
How I got there: Car — From Tilcara, up to the viewpoint
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Amazing views. I was short of breath because of the altitude.
- Restaurant
Patagonia
Visited: Jan 11, 2025
How I got there: Car — South to San Salvador de Jujuy, the central square
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The brewery on Plaza Belgrano. Nice.
- Lodging
Plaza 9 de Julio
Visited: Jan 11, 2025
How I got there: Car — On south to Salta, close to the plaza
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We were staying near the square, which I found nice.
- Attraction
El Molino
Visited: Jan 11, 2025
How I got there: Walk — The peñas at night
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Lively. La Casona del Molino.
- Attraction
La Estación
Visited: Jan 11, 2025
How I got there: Walk — Balcarce, the peña street
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Another peña — the lively end of the trip.
Route summary: Salta → Garganta del Diablo → Anfiteatro → Cafayate → Patios de Cafayate → Piattelli → El Carril → Cachi → San Antonio de los Cobres → Hotel de las Nubes → Salinas Grandes → Cuesta del Lipán → Purmamarca → Tulmas → La Peña de Rolito → Serranías del Hornocal → Patagonia → Plaza 9 de Julio → El Molino → La Estación